Descrizione
Stunning Chardonnay from an unexpected source is always a treat, but this is up there with the best!
Made by up-and-coming star Clemens Rosenkranz in the historic Rheingau, this gorgeous Chardonnay is crisp and bright with complex flavours of apple, lime, uncooked nuts, herbs and smoke with a long, clean and mineral palate, that makes your mouth water with a surprisingly full texture. It is really excellent and makes you wonder why there are not more wines like this from the Rheingau! There’s a weeny bit of oak, but it plays a supporting role to the quality and character of fruit.
Germany has its fair share of excellent Chardonnay regions, but the Rheingau is rarely used because of the cold climate and the importance of Riesling and Pinot Noir, which both dominate the plantings in the region. This then is a brilliant and very welcome surprise that shows that there are some positives in the changing climate and that not all of the land is perhaps as occupied as we had thought! Planted in high density and using Burgundy clones, the vineyard is at the east of Hochheim on a Limestone ridge.
The fermentation and maturation of the wine took place in traditional German Halbstücke (great big oval wooden barrels that have no flavour impact) and some smaller oak barrels, where malolactic fermentation also occurred. After 12 months of lees ageing the wine was blended and then left for a further six months in steel tanks.
Try it – this is a style to which many fine Burgundy villages could aspire, but for the inconsistent weather of the past decade or more are challenged to meet. This is simultaneously progressive as well as, paradoxically, nostalgic!
Recensioni
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